What to see in Baeza? – The 10 places to visit –

What to see and do in Baeza

In this article you’ll find the essential information for what to see in Baeza:

• A few words about Baeza and its origins
• Where is Baeza on the map?
• What to see in Baeza – the 10 essentials –
• What to do in Baeza?
• Book accommodation
• The best ferias in Baeza
• What to see around this small town?
• Some useful links
• The latest articles on authentic Andalucia

A few words about Baeza and its origins

Baeza is an extraordinary little town, surrounded by a sea of olive trees, in the province of Jaen. Along with Ubeda, its Renaissance monuments and its beauty are surprising.

Visiting Baeza and walking through the cobbled streets of the historic centre is like strolling back to the 16th century. It was for this reason, as for Ubeda, that it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO on 3 July 2003.

A little history

Baeza has been inhabited for thousands of years. However, it was during the Roman period and then under al-Andalus that it underwent significant development.

The ancient Bayyasa – Baeza under al-Andalus – is one of the cities that has seen the most periods of war. Indeed, the city was conquered and lost several times by both sides. Unlike other Andalucia cities, Baeza was conquered and lost not over a few years or decades, but over several centuries!

An incredible anecdote about Baeza – it must be unique in history –

As mentioned, Baeza found itself at the centre of numerous battles for control.

To put an end to these battles, the Almohads, in the 12th century, built a fortress reputed to be impregnable and erected 2 surrounding walls to protect the town. These walls were reinforced by 53 defensive towers!

The city of Baeza was conquered by Christian troops on 30 November 1227. After negotiations, the Muslims abandoned the Alcázar of Baeza. They were free to move to the Albayzín district of Granada. The walls and the Alcazar remained intact.

Incredibly, 2 centuries later, 2 families clashed in Baeza to take control of the city. The fratricidal struggles between the Benavides and Carvajales families led Isabella the Catholic to order the destruction of the walls and the famous Alcázar in 1476 to put an end to the fighting.

Today, there are still some fine remains of these walls, but only a few foundations of the alcazar can be seen.

Where is Baeza on the map?

What to see in Baeza – the 10 essentials –

1 – Puerta de Ubeda

2 – Palacio de Jabalquinto

3 – Church of Santa Cruz

4 – Paseo de las Murallas

5 – Baeza Cathedral

6 – Plaza de Santa María

7 – Seminario de San Felipe Neri

8 – Plaza del Pópulo

9 – Antonio Machado and Ubeda

10 – Paseo de la Constitución

I have to say that visiting Baeza was a permanent delight. Here is my selection of the most beautiful places to see in Baeza.

1 – Puerta de Ubeda

The Puerta d’Ubeda is another of the places to see in Ubeda. You enter the historic centre through this gate. One of the few remaining.

It was also the gateway through which people used to set off on the road to Ubeda, a dozen kilometres away.

Right next to this gateway is a magnificent defensive tower, the Albarrana Tower. If you have a little time, you can visit the Baeza Medieval Interpretation Centre in this tower.

Finally, the Porte d’Ubeda and this tower formed part of the old Arab wall, fortified in the 12th century by the Almohads.

Note: there is a very good hotel right next to the Porte d’Ubeda, which we’ll talk about below.

2 – Palacio de Jabalquinto

The façade of this palace is without doubt one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. It is one of the finest examples of Elizabethan Gothic. It was built at the end of the 15th century.

This Jabalquinto palace, which stands just behind the Seminary of San Felipe Neri, is now home to the headquarters of the International University of Andalucia.

Just a few metres from this palace is the Antigua Universidad (old university), one of the few Mannerist-style buildings in Baeza. More on this below, with Antonio Machado 🙂.

3 – Church of Santa Cruz

The church of Santa Cruz is located just opposite the Jabalquinto palace.

It is one of the few Romanesque churches in Andalucia and a must-see in Baeza. The facades are of course very sober and offer a certain contrast with the Jabalquinto palace.

It was built in the 13th century after the city was taken by Ferdinand III. It is worth noting that the south door of the church is original.

Inside the church: the semi-circular apse covered with frescoes from the early 16th century. Superb!

4 – Paseo de las Murallas

The wall walk – paseo de las Murallas – is interesting not only for its views but also for its history.

This walk is the old route of the two fortified walls of the city and the Alcázar. Today, only a few scattered traces of these walls and the Alcázar remain.

It is also known as Paseo Antonio Machado, as it features a sculpture of the portrait of this famous poet, who taught French for several years at a school in Baeza.

From the Paseo de las Murallas, you have a breathtaking view of the Guadalquivir valley, dotted with small hills and fields of olive trees as far as the eye can see.

5 – Baeza Cathedral

The Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady of Baeza is a must-see in Baeza. Its Renaissance style dates back to the 16th century, following a number of transformations.

This cathedral dominates the monumental landscape of Baeza with its bell tower over 50 metres high.

It was declared a national monument in 1931 and stands on a former Roman temple, which was transformed into a Visigoth temple and then into a mosque after the arrival of the Muslims in the 8th century.

The Puerta de la Luna – Moon Door –

One of the cathedral’s entrances is at the foot of the bell tower, the Puerta de la Luna.

It is assumed that this tower is the minaret of the former 11th-century mosque.

The 13th-century Gothic-Mudejar Puerta de la Luna is notable for its lobed horseshoe arch and 14th-century Gothic rose window.

There is also a relief of Bishop San Pedro Pascual, bishop of the diocese of Jaen. His remains rest in an urn above the main altar.

Note: The story of his burial is a curious one. This bishop was kidnapped by the Muslims and taken to Granada. There, he was sentenced to death and beheaded on 6 December 1300. The Christians of Jaen and Baeza came to collect his body, but the authorities of the two towns argued over the burial site. In the end, they decided to let the mule that carried the bishop’s body choose it. On the way back, the mule will take the road to Baeza….

Inside the Cathedral

There are numerous chapels, including the superb Capilla Dorada.

Also not to be missed is the formidable bronze and crystal chandelier hanging from the transept vault, a valuable piece of 19th-century art.

The cloister of the Cathedral

On the south façade is the famous Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness), in the flamboyant Gothic style. It provides access to the cloister from the street.

Take a stroll through the Gothic courtyard and cloister, and admire the chapels with their gates. And its Mudéjar chapels, some of which date from the late 14th century.

6 – Plaza de Santa María

The Plaza de Santa María, from which you can see the formidable façade of the cathedral, is home to a number of historic civil and religious buildings, including:

– las Casas Consistoriales Altas

– the Fountain of Santa María

– the Seminary of San Felipe Neri

Les Casas Consistoriales

The Casas Consistoriales were one of the most important buildings in the city. It was the seat of the Council of Baeza from the early 16th century :

Its Gothic façade features a number of coats of arms, including those of Juana la Loca (one of the 5 children of Isabella the Catholic and Ferdinand of Aragon) and Felipe el Hermoso.

The Santa María fountain

This water fountain was built in 1564 to celebrate the arrival of water in Baeza. Renaissance in style, it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful fountains in Andalucia.

This fountain is notable for its triumphal arch, the Baeza coat of arms and those of King Felipe II.

7 – Seminario de San Felipe Neri

This is one of the most important buildings on the Santa Maria Square. The Seminario de San Felipe Neria was built in the 17th century. The seminary was founded in 1660 by Bishop Fernando de Andrade.

It ceased to serve as a seminary in 1969. It now houses the Antonio Machado Chair of the International University of Andalucia, as well as accommodation.

The most striking feature is the red lettering on the façade.

These are old inscriptions left by students. These messages on the façade are called ‘vitores’ and are nothing more than an ancient version of the graffiti we know today.

The messages evoke social criticism and also the rivalry that existed between Ubeda and Baeza.

8 – Plaza del Pópulo

Like the Plaza Santa Maria, the Plaza del Populo is a monumental square. There are many things to discover in the square.

The fountain of the lions

This fountain is an archaeological monument. In fact, the sculptures of the links come from the Roman city of Castulo.

Above the lions, the sculpture represents Imilce, an Iberian princess who married the great Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca.

Note: when Hannibal’s army invaded Spain, he built a castle in Jaen.

In the Plaza del Populo you can also see:

• the Puerta de Jaen (a vestige of the ancient walls under Al-Andalus)
• the Arc de Villalar,
• the old butchers’ shops, with an abattoir on the ground floor

Note: Funnily enough, these old butchers’ shops, with their abattoir, are now the seat of the town’s courts 🙂 . It’s also worth mentioning that the town hall (which is truly beautiful) is housed in the town’s former prison…

9 – Antonio Machado and Ubeda

Antonio Machado is one of Andalucia’s best-known poets, after Federico García Lorca. This great poet from Seville taught French at the Lycée Baeza from 1912 to 1919. Below is the entrance to the lycée, the former university:

And on this façade is a portrait of Antonio Machado, with a sublime phrase.

In this school, the former university, you can visit the classroom, which has remained intact, with the same furniture:

Right next to the classroom there is now a very well-designed exhibition space on Antonio Machado and education at that time.

The city of Baeza pays tribute to this man in many places around the city. You could even take a Machadian route through the city.

Here are some of the Machadian places you can see:

• the secondary school with its classroom
• the adjacent exhibition hall
• the house at calle Gaspar Becerra 10, where he lived
• the Hotel Comercio
• Don Adolfo Almazán’s pharmacy
• the Plaza de Santa María
• the Encina Negra
• the Casino de Artesanos
• the statue of Antonio Machado on a bench in calle San Pablo:

10 – Paseo de la Constitución

The name is rather curious, as it is actually a square, the largest in Baeza.

This is where the city’s main hub is located. All around the square are arcaded buildings with numerous bars and restaurants.

This is where the medieval market was held in the 16th century…

The most attractive part of the town’s history is the imposing Torre de los Aliatares, an ancient tower of the walls of Al-Andalus.

This square tower, known today as the Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower), is built of ashlar and impresses with its 25-metre high battlements. Below is a photo showing the top of this tower.

What to do in Baeza

Below are a number of ideas for activities and guided tours in Baeza. You can book them online today.

Bonus: all activities can be cancelled up to 24 hours before the scheduled date.

Among the tours on offer, don’t hesitate to visit oil mills or olive groves, with tastings.

Book accommodation

Below you will find all the hotels and accommodation available in Baeza, once you have selected your dates:

On a personal note, I stayed right next to the old wall and the Ubeda Gate. The hotel was perfect. Here’s the link to find out more about La Casona del Arco.

If you’re lucky enough to be able to stay overnight in Baeza, I invite you to go out at night and stroll around the conjunto historico. The monuments are illuminated and offer a wonderful atmosphere. This walk is an invitation to travel back in time:

Right in the centre, you can also stay in a 16th-century palace. The interior is beautiful, and you can choose to just go to the restaurant too. Here’s the link to find out more and/or book a room at the Hotel Cetina Palacio de los Salcedo.

The dates of the Feria de Baeza

The main festivity in Baeza is the Feria de Nuestra Virgen del Alcazar:

What to see around Baeza?

A visit to Baeza is part of an unmissable tour of the province of Jaen, which also includes Jaen and Ubeda.

Jaen, its castle and cathedral

Here’s a link to a visit to Jaen.

Ubeda, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Here’s the link to visit Ubeda.

Some useful links

Staying on the Costa del Sol? Explore Andalucia with tours from Malaga (Torremolinos, Estepona, Benalmadena).

If you’re planning to visit Andalucia, including Seville, you can explore Seville on a private guided tour.

Easy and economical bookings

• your flight

• hire car

• train and bus tickets

Here are the latest articles on Andalucia