What to do and see in Soportujar, the village of witches?
Things to do and see in Soportujar
In this article, you will find essential information about what to see and do in Soportujar, the village of witches:
- A few words about Soportujar and its origins
- Where is Soportujar located on the map?
- What to see in Soportujar?
- What to do in Soportujar and its surroundings?
- Booking accommodation
- Where to park in Soportújar
- Map of Soportujar with magical places to see
- The Ferias de Soportujar
- Some useful links
- The latest articles on Andalusia
A few words about Soportujar and its origins
Soportujar is a village in the Alpujarra region of Granada, located about 60 km from Granada. It is usually visited along with the beautiful villages in the surrounding area, such as Pampaneira, Capileira and Trevélez.
Most of the municipality’s territory is located within the Sierra Nevada National Park.
The origins of Soportujar
Until the end of the 16th century, when the area was still under Moorish rule, the town was known as Xabotaya or Soborcoxar.
In 1571, after the defeat of Aben Humeya during the period known as the Las Alpujarras revolt, the last Mudejars and Moriscos were expelled. The Catholic Monarchs ‘repopulated’ the region by settling Spaniards from the northern regions of present-day Spain there.
Finally, the inhabitants of Soportújar are officially called soportujero and soportujera. However, they are popularly and colloquially known as brujo and bruja (wizard and witch), due to their history and legends linked to witchcraft. We’ll talk about that in a moment 🙂
And, just before we find out why they have these nicknames, here is the village’s coat of arms. I can assure you that this is the official coat of arms:
The history of the witches of Soportujar
As mentioned above, the village was repopulated in the 17th century by Spaniards from the north of the country. They came mainly from Galicia.
These inhabitants brought with them their customs and traditions, their legends and their beliefs. They arrived with:
– the meigas (witches and sorceresses from Galician folklore)
– sabbats (a term that also refers to night-time gatherings of sorcerers. These were often pagan sabbats, seasonal festivals celebrating the cycle of nature). The term and celebrations were later adopted by religions.
– rituals performed during the darkest nights
These curious customs eventually aroused the suspicion of neighbouring villages. The inhabitants of the surrounding villages reported cases of witchcraft. The ecclesiastical authorities were even called upon to investigate several women suspected of witchcraft. Put into the context of the time, that of the Inquisition and the treatment reserved for those accused of heresy it is quite frightening.
In any case, the legend of Soportujar as a village of wizards, witches and sorceresses was born.
Where is Soportujar on the map?
What is there to see in Soportujar?
This short guide to places to visit in Soportújar is designed to show you the best spots in the village.
Note: If you come in August during the Feria de la Brujería (Witchcraft Fair) or in November during the Noche de las Brujas (Night of the Witches), your visit will be even better 🙂
1 – The Witch’s Eye Cave, Cueva del ojo de la bruja
2 – The Head of Baba Yaga the Witch
3 – The Mirador de Soportújar
4 – The Well of Desires or Wishes, Pozo de los deseos
5 – The Magic Cauldrons
6 – The Dragon Fountain, Fuente del Dragón,
7 – The Circe Fountain, Fuente de Circe
8 – Zanjilla Street
9 – The Magic Broom, Escoba voladora
10 – Baba Yaga’s House
11 – Soportújar Church Square
12 – The Dream Weaver Spider, Araña Tejedora de Sueños
13 – Place of the Sabbath, Era del Aquelarre
Note: further down in the article there is a map of Soportujar with places to see.
1- The Witch’s Eye Cave, Cueva del ojo de la bruja
This site is located on the road to the village, about 1 km from the centre of Soportujar. This small cave was used to recreate a scene of a witch preparing magic potions and spells. Many visitors throw a coin in to make a wish.
And next to this cave is the cemetery and a small bridge that is said to be enchanted!
2 – The Head of Baba Yaga the Witch
Just before entering the village, there is a huge sculpture representing the head of Baba Yaga the Witch. She was an old witch who lived in Russia and settled in this region of the Alpujarra in search of a better climate.
It is said that this blue-eyed witch with a toothless smile fed on children who misbehaved. Further into the village, you can see her house.
3 – Le Mirador de Soportújar
The Mirador de Soportújar offers a beautiful view of the surrounding area. You can even see neighbouring villages such as Carataunas and Cáñar.
In the square where the viewpoint is located, there is also a fountain with two witches making a magic potion in a cauldron. It is also one of the iconic locations during the festivals that take place in this village.
4 – The Well of Desires or Wishes, Pozo de los deseos
On this square, it is said that if you throw a coin into the well with your eyes closed and make a wish, it will come true!
It is also said that you can give in to the temptation to look at what is hidden at the bottom of the well…
5 – The Magic Cauldrons
On the corner of a street, you can see a whole set of cauldrons used to prepare magic potions.
6 – The Dragon Fountain, Fuente del Dragón
This is another must-see in Soportújar, especially for those in search of magical fountains.
It is said that the water from this fountain has aphrodisiac properties and stimulates fertility.
This probably explains the exact spot where the water gushes from this fountain of fertility.
Finally, and to make the connection with the next place, I did not understand at all why very few men dared to drink from this fountain. Similarly, I did not understand why they were all spontaneously more inclined to drink the water from the next fountain.
7 – The fountain of Circe, Fuente de Circe
Next to this fountain is an inscription that says something like this: ‘From Circe’s breasts springs pleasure, but if you are wicked, she will drive you mad. Her water seduces, her water is deadly and transforms evil men into animals.’
Here is this beautiful fountain:
8 – Zanjilla Street
Zanjilla Street, unlike the other streets, is less magical and mystical. However, it is said to be the narrowest street in Spain.
9 – The Magic Broom, Escoba voladora
This flying broom was probably forgotten long ago by a stray witch. Many people like to climb on it to take photos of themselves.
Others, more daring, try to make it take off by kicking the ground hard with their feet. Neighbours told me that you have to be careful because when this happens, take-off is super fast!
10 – Baba Yaga’s House
As mentioned earlier, you can see Baba Yaga‘s house below.
The story goes that she was able to travel such a distance from her native Russia thanks to the two enormous chicken legs that support her house and can easily move it.
11 – Soportújar Church Square
On this church square, there is a very beautiful church. It was built on the site of the village’s former mosque. Going to church in this village may seem rather curious.
12 – The Dream Weaver Spider, Araña Tejedora de Sueños
This is an impressive place, but the spider is not dangerous.
The village witches often call on the Dream Weaver on full moon nights.
13 – Place of the Sabbath, Era del Aquelarre
To finish this list of must-see places to visit in Soportújar, we can go to the Era del Aquelarre. Here, there is a viewpoint offering beautiful panoramic views. This place is decorated with various witchcraft objects and a small dwelling where a witch lives.
Local history tells us that this was once a gathering place for witches, a sabbath. They prepared potions here, performed initiation rites to welcome new witches and wizards into their circle, cast spells, and it was one of their favourite places to take a ride on their flying broomsticks.
One last thing for your visit to Soportujar: before you leave, you will have the opportunity to take home the best souvenirs from the village of Soportujar:
What to do in Soportujar?
Below you will find a number of ideas for activities to do in the province of Granada, not far from Soportujar. You can book them online today.
Bonus: all activities can be cancelled up to 24 hours before the scheduled date.
Among the best activities in Soportujar: visit the other villages of the Alpujarra
Pampaneira
Pampaneira is just a few kilometres from Soportujar. It is part of the Pueblos más bonitos de España network (like the neighbouring villages of Bubíon, Capileira and Trevélez).
The village of Pampaneira is a marvel to visit.
Capileira
As with Pampaneira, a visit to Capileira is truly enchanting.
Note: from Capileira you can see the two highest peaks on the Iberian Peninsula: El Pico de Veleta and Mulhacén.
Trevélez
This is another well-known village in the Alpujarra. Perched at an altitude of 1,500 metres, it owes its reputation to its ham-curing industry. The pure, very dry air is ideal for producing the famous Jamón de Trevélez.
Here is a link to more photos and information about villages to visit in the Alpujarra.
Book accommodation
Below, you will find all the hotels and accommodation available in Soportujar, after selecting your dates:
Where to park in Soportújar ?
Parking is undoubtedly more complicated than in other white villages in Andalusia, especially in high season.
The best option is to park in the car park just before you reach the village. It’s a 10-minute walk to the village centre, during which you can enjoy the magnificent views of the Alpujarra mountains.
Alternatively, there are two private car parks in the village, including the one at Hansel and Gretel’s house. The rate is £5 for the day. Finally, there is another car park above the village at Era del Aquelarre (another historic site associated with witchcraft in the village). However, in high season, I wouldn’t risk driving into the village and trying to find a space.
The map of Soportujar with the magical places mentioned in the article
Festivities of Soportujar
The Feria of the magic spell in August
During the feria, at nightfall, the lights go out, plunging Soportujar into darkness. The village is then lit by the flames of a few torches. In the evening, you can watch a sabbath, a parade of devils, and see witches in pointed hats around the fire. All the magicians and witches in the region are of course invited to join in this feria.
Witches’ Night in November
Some useful links
- For those staying on the Costa del Sol and wishing to visit Andalusia, here are 9 magnificent guided tours from Malaga, Torremolinos, Fuengirola or Benalmadena.
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